Out of Hell

Dubai – January 1 

Fab and I woke up with big headaches. We had breakfast in bed and then spent the remainder of the morning nursing our hangovers. We got kicked out of our hotel room at 2pm and realized we had nowhere to go until our 2am flight to London. We milled about in the hotel lobby until we got bored and decided that the only thing we could do in this godforsaken city was go to the mall. Sad, but true. I guess we could have went to one of the beaches, but we didn’t really feel like swimming in our clothes. We could have went to one of the race tracks in the city, but what’s the point of going to the track if you can’t bet.

We spent an infuriating five hours at the Mall of the Emirates flipping through magazines and books. When we could take it no longer, we caught the shuttle bus back to the hotel and set up camp on one of the couches. At 10pm, we decided to go to the airport.

Since the Dubai airport is really just a glorified shopping mall, it offered us no relief. I spent close to an hour waiting to use the internet behind a girl obsessed with Facebook, probably the most inane internet tool of all time. I mean, is it necessary to tag all of your friends (by my count it was close to 40, like a twenty year old girl has 40 friends worth emailing) with stupid little comments like, “I’m at the airport” or “New Year’s was crazy” or “what’s the weather like” or “Dylan looks soooo cute in his new pyjamas”.  I felt like kicking her in the back of her knees.

After a ranting session to Fab, which fell on deaf ears, we cleared security and waited impatiently for our flight to depart. As an added bonus, we were stuck in the very last row of the airplane. I tried to complain, but no one seemed to care.

New Year’s in Dubai

Dubai – December 31

Another day, another mall. That’s what the city is all about, don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. From what I saw while driving through the Dubai, there was no pedestrian traffic and the whole city seemed to be comprised of shopping centres and half finished buildings. Aside from the iconic Burj Al-Arab, everything else in Dubai was under construction: the Palm Jumeirah and Palm Deira, two artificial communities resembling palm trees built out in the harbour; the World, an ostentatious community in the shape of the world’s continents; and the Burj Dubai, an unfinished sky scraper resembling a crooked, metallic spine.  

After finishing up some fevered shopping, Fab and I returned to the hotel to bring in the new year.  Apparently there was a huge fireworks display out in the harbour, but we were both disgusted enough by the city to not give a shit. Instead, we brought in the New Year by downing a magnum of champagne and ordering room service.

The Palm Trees Got Smaller, The Buildings Got Taller

Dubai – December 30

We had the breakfast buffet in the morning alongside the most mutli-cultural crowd I have ever dined with. There were African porters, Australian loud mouths, trashy Russians, Thai cooks, and a melange of other tourists and business men. We spent most of the day lounging around in the room, enjoying the comfort provided by Fab’s father. A good Christmas present indeed. We uncorked a bottle of wine and then raided the mini-bar.

In the late afternoon, we caught a shuttle bus down to the Mall of the Emirates. We thought we would shop around and pick up some warm clothes for London, where we were headed to next. Our threadbare shirts and pants weren’t going to cut it in dreary olde England. We browsed around for a bit and then stopped to watch people slalom down the artifical slopes of Ski Dubai.

While mocking the excesses of Dubai, we ran into a real estate developer from Toronto who had just returned from the Haj in Saudi Arabia. He filled us in on his pilgrimage and told us that the whole experience was total chaos: not enough bathrooms, no beds, brutal sanitary conditions and a general feeling of suffocation. He also told us about how Dubai has been built on what amounts to slave labour. According to him, the construction workers are paid around $200 a month, work six 14hr days and are not given any benefits. On top of this, the construction companies pay no tax and safety standards are haphazard. Essentially, Dubai is a city where the people responsible for building it cannot not afford to live within it. Fab and I listened in horror and then went and bought a couple of double lattes to make ourselves feel better.  

One More Time for the Road

Mumbai to Dubai – December 29 

Fab and I ran around trying to find a post office that would ship a parcel of ours back home. At one location, we were told that only one office in Mumbai shipped parcels internationally, Victoria Terminus, but that was across town and would be a nightmare to try and navigate. Another location told us that they did indeed ship parcels internationally, but that we had to have the package wrapped in white cloth by a tailor (another one of India’s charming idiosyncracies). When we went to a tailor, he said he could wrap it, but didn’t have a box to put our stuff in, so we went back to the post office to try and work something out. Low and behold, they said the package didn’t need to be wrapped, but that they preferred it that way. Then they told us they were closed even though we were standing at the counter and people were busy working away.

Devika ended up finding out that the airport had a 24hour post office that shipped internationally. After bidding farewell to the Shah family, we went to the airport with our box in hand. At the airport, the man at the post office weighed our package and then gave us a price off the top of his head. According to the shipping rates back in the city, he was way off. When we told him the price was high, he gave us another price off the top of his head. Not wanting to cave in and line the guy’s pockets with rupees, we decided to take the package to Dubai and ship it from there.

After clearing security, Fab and I decided to toss around a few of our left over rupees and have a beer in the airport lounge. We took a look at the price list and decided against it. The prices were as follows (and I shit you not): $15 US for a bottle of beer, $50 for a tumbler of whisky and $80 for a glass of red wine. Not sure who they thought they were fooling. Even a cup of tea cost $5 and that’s just hot water and a tea bag. Needless to say, we held off and boarded the plane to Dubai.

Much to our surprise, we were upgraded to business class. We spent the duration of the 3hr flight downing as many expensive, yet complimentary, drinks as we could. The free booze combined with ample leg room and stellar service made for a pleasant getaway from India. Although, India kicked our asses we knew that we were going to miss the place, despite all the hair-tearing madness.

When we arrived in the Dubai airport, or more accurately, the Dubai duty free shopping mall, we picked up some cigarettes, wine, beer and champagne – all of which cost less than a glass of red wine back in Mumbai. We had thought that the airport would be relatively empty due to our late arrival, but that was not the case. Upon exiting the terminal, we were immersed in masses of people from every possible nationality.

Our hotel picked us up at the terminal and promptly brought us downtown. My first impression was that the city was very clean. My second impression was that arriving in Dubai was like arriving in a city that was only half finished, like some kind of science fiction movie set weeks before production was due to begin. There were bridges with thick beams of neon across the roadway, cranes lit up in green and sky scraper skeletons twinkling with pin pricks of white light. Short, squat palm trees lined the side of the streets and expensive sports cars whizzed past us pumping techno music.

Our hotel room was something else all together. The room was illuminated by futuristic track lighting, the closet doors glowed and the bathroom had yellow orbs jutting out of the mirror. There were also speakers above the toilet so you could take a crap and without missing anything on TV. Added to this was the most comfortable bed I have ever had the pleasure of lying on. As Fab said, “I know it’s not right to think that luxury is important, but right now it feels important.” Well put.